Back to Santiago

(Santiago)

Since today was only a travel day back to Santiago, I woke up at my leisure before heading to the bus station. This time I opted to walk there to save the hefty cab fare. Good thing I did, because I stumbled upon the Post Office on my way there and I was finally able to get some stamps. Woo Hoo! I sent myself a quick postcard from Valpo before jumping back on the bus to the Capitol.

(Cafe Cortado)

Back in Santiago I booked a B&B in Providencia. Upon arrival I was a little confused. It simply looked like a regular apartment building. There was nothing to distinguish that there was a B&B in there. Nothing. I was quickly beginning to doubt my choice, but my taxi was gone and I had pre-paid. I spied a weathered piece of paper that gave instructions for Marilu's Bed and Breakfast so I rang the bell. Turns out Marilu was a wonderful hostess. She was running a small B&B out of her apartment on the first floor of the building. Her living room had been turned into the reception area, complete with a dining table and a community computer. She offered three rooms with a shared bath but the rooms were spacious, private and clean. The bathroom was also immaculate. Marilu was also eager to tell me where to go and what to see in the city, offering me a map and directions.

(Santiago Metro)

It was my last day in Chile and I really didn't have an agenda so I took the metro to the end of the line where Marilu suggested there was a pretty mission and artist colony with a great view of the mountains. The artist colony was very touristy but it was interesting to walk around and look at the stalls filled with various handcrafts. I sat down for a beer and an empanada since I was famished.

(Lunch isn't complete without a cold cervesa.)

From there I just started wandering. It felt like I walked ten miles. I just walked and walked and walked some more, snaking my way through the outlying neighborhoods in Santiago. Eventually I ended up at another metro station and I hopped on, bound for another neighborhood Marilu had recommended. It was close to where I dined the first night and it was happy hour so I popped into the busiest bar for a cocktail. Turns out the most popular bar in that neighborhood was called "California" and they offered "California Favorites", none of which I've ever know to be a favorite in my state. But no bother. I had a fabulous glass of Sangria and free wifi so I was able to check email and call home.

(Pil Pil Shrimp)

I know I should have tried a different restaurant, but it was my last night in the city and I had such a good meal my first night in this neighborhood that I ended up in the same place for my final dinner, sitting out on the sidewalk and watching the world go by. I really like Chile and Santiago in particular. Yes, it's a huge city and cloaked in smog, but there is an energy here and the more I explore it the more I realize there is to find here. I'm sure I'll be back again someday, hopefully soon.

Rolling with the Punches

(Street Art in Bellavista)

I the middle of the night, my first one here in Santiago, I woke with a start. I felt an eerily familiar sensation and even still half asleep I knew what was happening at once - an Earthquake. It didn't last long, maybe 15 seconds or so. It's hard to evaluate how much time is passing after coming out of a deep sleep with a start at four in the morning. As I lie in bed I wasn't scared. I took a moment to evaluate the situation and realized that everything was fine so I rode it out in bed rather than in the door way. In moments it was over, no harm no foul, so I drifted off back to sleep. It was actually kind of fun. Yes, I know, I'm sick. When I woke up in the morning I wasn't sure if it was a dream or reality so I hopped on the computer. There wasn't anything in the news about it. But then I went to a site (Hey, I live in earthquake country. I know about these things.) that tracks earthquakes globally on a continual basis and lo and behold there was indeed an earthquake here last night. What was unexpected was the magnitude and epicenter: 5.1 centered right near Santiago proper. I made sure the folks back home knew I was okay, just in case something was reported on the news. Thankfully, there was no damage I could see in Santiago.

(Museo Belles Artes)

This morning I also decided to change hotels. This one is more expensive. It's actually another apartment rental, but it is so much nicer and much more secure. Now I don't have to lug my computer around everywhere I go. If I lived in Santiago I would actually love to live in this apartment full time. It's so clean and modern and centrally located. I lucked out finding this one.

(Lunch in Bellavista)

I spent most of the day exploring the city on foot. I've been walking absolutely everywhere. I really think it's the best way to see and feel the city. I started at the Art Museum, which is housed in a gorgeous colonial building with a small but quite fine art collection, including some modern exhibits. There was a war propaganda exhibit that was especially intriguing including everything from posters by Norman Rockwell urging Americans to buy war bonds to Maoist propaganda posters from Vietnam, similar to ones we have hanging in our house. After the museum I was starving so I made my way across the river into Barrio Bellavista, known for it's shops, bars and restaurants. Here I had lunch and spent my time people (and llama) watching.

(Cerro Santa Lucia)

(Cerro Santa Lucia)

(Cerro Santa Lucia reflected in a high rise.)

In the afternoon I decided to climb to the top of Cerro Santa Lucia to get a good look at the urban sprawl of the city. It's more of a public park on a hill than anything, although there is a castle at the top. Here children play, and tourists, like myself, seek out a moment of peace from the noise of the traffic below. Unfortunately the castle was closed so I couldn't go all the way to the top but I still got a good view.

(Cerro Santa Lucia)

(Cerro Santa Lucia)

(Cerro Santa Lucia)

(Cerro Santa Lucia)

Back at the base of the hill, I sat in a plaza with the locals to read a little. It seems all the city's plazas and parks are teeming with life on the weekends. I continued to wander, discovering a crowded walk street that led me to the Plaza des Armas. The Plaza was overflowing with people, happy on a Saturday afternoon. There were children vying for balloons, people dancing to live music and artists painting for the tourists. The sun was starting to fall so I decided to indulge in a movie, justifying it by trying to improve my Spanish.

(A clown entertaining the crowd on the walk street.)

(Plaza des Armas)

After the movie I walked back to Barrio Bellavista to grab some dinner and do some more people watching. Bellavista is even more lively at night, when the moon rises. Here people are dressed to the nines, ready to drink and dance the night away. My waiter even asked me to join him at a dance club across the street after his shift, and while I know Marc wouldn't mind, I politely declined. Seeing the people lined up to get in I felt sorely underdressed. I know, I know. I should have gone but I'm okay with not going. I still had a great day in the city.

Onward to Chile

I finished my Spanish classes with Anna this morning. I was surprised that I actually graduated from the first level this week. And I have the certificate to prove it. I even learned how to use the future tense. The next level focuses on speaking in the past tense. I think I need more practice speaking in the present and memorizing my verbs before I move onto the next level. We ended the class with a walk and a coffee in San Martin Park, even ending a little early which gave me time to grab a little lunch before catching my flight to Santiago.

They weren't joking. The layer of smog is thick as you begin to approach Santiago. It's reminicent of the Los Angeles of my youth. Thankfully, we no longer have days like this at home. This city has a completely different energy, of course. It's impossible to compare Santiago and Mendoza. I suppose the real comparisons will come after I've been able to spend some real time in BA. The largest difference, at the moment, is the accent. The Argentines have a very distinct accent, that's different from the rest of Latin America, changing their double Ls into a J sound. But here in Chile they speak Castilian, or so my taxi driver told me. And yes, their accent does sound a more similar to the Spanish from Spain but I'm not noticing a use of the "vosotros" here.

This city is massive and quite cosmopolitan. And though Santiago is huge and covered in a layer of smog, it's surprisingly clean. Driving through here I've noticed more of a Latin American influence overall than the European influence felt in Argentina. Not to say this isn't an international city. It is, just on first sight it's more difficult for me to blend in here.

I tried to settle into my hostel, and while it's nice, clean, quiet and I have my own room I don't quite feel it's secure enough to leave my computer and passport behind. My room is on the ground level with a large window that opens out onto the internal courtyard. While nice, not very safe, especially with the cracked out woman I saw near the front desk as I was checking in. I think it's safer to keep my valuables on my person for the moment, which is quite inconvenient, not to mention heavy.

My plan was to take the metro to a restaurant I read about in Barrio Providencia but after about 5 minutes on the street with my backpack full of valuables I thought better of it. I'm already conspicuous as it is with my blue eyes, fair skin and blonde hair. Plus I couldn't shake the feeling that I was being watched by a guy who kept inching closer to me at every corner even after I would move away through the crowd. He was probably harmless but if there is one thing I have learned while traveling it's to trust your instincts so I hopped in a cab instead. Funny thing is, I ended up having to give my cab drivers directions both there and back since I mapped it out and they got lost both ways. But dinner made everything worth it. The fresh fish here is divine. I mean, really, can you beat fresh Chilean Sea Bass in Chile? I don't think so.

Oh, and Lori, this Pisco Sour is for you!